![]() What if I could recycle one to generate simple greyscale output for the dim early portion of a sunrise alarm, then let the Floalt take over for the brighter portion when the monitor reaches max brightness? (Or, for smaller Floalt panels, what if I could extract the LCD part from the display and use it as a programmable dimmer over the top of the Floalt?) (1): I do have a real remote, but I cloned its firmware onto a module from a GU10 bulb as a cheap way of getting a second one in bare PCB form then I largely copied what Make: did, except a few quid cheaper and driven by an STM32 instead.īefore I went down this road, I explored another one: older, smaller LCD monitors with VGA input are basically free and are destined for e-waste. I've no idea how well, if at all, these patches would work with that mechanism. But there are posts that suggest you can specify those things when using gateways/APIs. ![]() This works fine for me using the stock Ikea hockey puck remote 1 with 5 buttons & grey rubber edges I know nothing of Light Link but presumably that remote just sends "increase brightness" etc., not raw brightness levels nor transition times. The second patch region adjusts DMA setup, changing the number of elements copied in each DMA activation from 43 to 8 (256/8 gives 32 levels). ![]() There are 256 levels in the fade table, and normally 43 levels in one brightness fade (256/43 gives ~7 levels). The code that executes a brightness change in practice sets up DMA between a pre-populated fade table in SRAM (source) and the timer responsible for doing PWM to the LED (destination). So when I set it to min 1% I'd just get (approximately) 100, 45, 23, 10, 5, 2, 1. The first patch region around 0x92xx reduces the minimum brightness, but isn't enough on its own since another aspect of the code still results in 7 brightness levels, fitting some polynomial curve. Note this is the sum over what flash really contains, not what a firmware update contains (updates don't contain empty bits, and probably do contain some signature overhead).įactory default brightness levels are 100, 60, 35, 21, 13, ~8 and 5 (% of full). ![]() This is obviously not proper documentation (just the 'what', not the 'how' and only minimal 'why'), but in case I have a stroke or something, the patch against 1.2.217 is: 0x000092dc 3868401c => 00bf00bfĠx000092e1 eb80006421b0fbf1f0 => bf00bf00bf4ff02000 Raise a bug against the instructions to get my attention if you follow them and find holes in them.Ī superficial look suggests it'll work with minimal adjustments on the larger panel sizes too, but nobody has tried yet to make sure. The wrinkles in this may not yet have been ironed out guidance of the other willing panel owner got stalled by slow delivery of their Blue Pill from China. A USBserial cable would also come in handy.Įdit 2: A rough walkthrough can be found on Github. ![]() If you're nerdy enough to follow along but don't yet have a SWD probe, buy yourself a Blue Pill for two or three dollars on eBay. With that in mind, anyone else want to try this out on other models? If so, I could guide someone through it, or maybe even write it up properly.Įdit: I am now guiding someone through this, and will document it as we go. If all that sounds scary, or like Greek, or like a scary Greek, this isn't for you. It's not for the faint of heart, and probably not worth it unless you find soldering fun I mention it only because several people seem to have asked for it/complained about the lack of it on here, and because maybe one of those is patient/determined/nerdy enough to try.Īmong other things you'd need: a Floalt you wouldn't mind accidentally frying, a healthy fear of mains electricity, a healthy indifference towards warranties, soldering skills, probably Linux and/or embedded skills, and a JTAG or SWD probe. I wanted to use the Floalt (30x30) as a sunrise alarm clock, so I hacked it to have 32 levels of brightness (default firmware had 7) starting at 0.05% (default firmware bottoms out at 5%). ![]()
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